Stinky tofu

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stinky tofu!

While in Hong Kong, I finally encountered one food that’s been on my list for quite a while: stinky tofu! I had only seen stinky tofu on TV before, but as we were wandering through a remote section of Hong Kong and rounded a corner, I knew exactly what the raunchy odor wafting through the air was. There was nothing else it could be and, of course, I bee lined directly for the stand selling it.

Stinky tofu, as its name implies, stinks. A lot. Imagine the odor from someone’s feet when they finally take off their shoes after they’ve been walking around in hot weather all day. The stench comes from the fermentation process that regular tofu does not go through. Here’s a choice quote from wikipedia:

The nature of the stinky tofu production process makes it extremely difficult to pass government food regulation even in Asia. The diversity and lack of formulated methods also makes it nearly impossible for the government to regulate and inspect. In Asia, no stinky tofu factories were ever officially licensed or constantly monitored; in most cases, government inspection can only focus on the cooking procedure and ventilation.

If that doesn’t sound scary enough, let’s delve deeper into the fermentation process. The key to the entire process is the brine, which is essentially each producers secret recipe. More about the brine from wikipedia: “the process can be extremely unsanitary; the brine is covered with maggots and has extremely strong rotten odor.” And, as if that wasn’t enough, we also have this: “less scrupulous stinky tofu factories in China reportedly used rotten kitchen waste, chemical dye and human feces to prepare the brine in order to achieve the odor and texture in short period of time.” I honestly can’t think of any other foods that sound like such a health hazard. Even sausages, traditionally known for their “unrefined” means of prodution, sound like a pristine product compared to stinky tofu.

Unbelievably, and despite that, I found the taste to be pretty good. Andrew Zimmern (of Bizarre Foods fame) couldn’t even handle all the stinky tofu he tried. No one else in my group would even go close to the reeking cube of tofu. I generally despise tofu for its bland and spongy taste, but this had much more character. It had a strong, sour taste much more to my liking. Advocates for stinky tofu do say the stronger the smell the better the taste. Too bad the process of making it will probably be enough to scare me away in the future.

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Don't put your nose too close

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Weird fusion

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squid ink rice and cheese

This was a weird fusion dish that was quite tasty. Rice cooked with squid ink topped with shrimp and cheese. Certainly not a common dish in Asia, although you really can expect any sort of fusion food in Hong Kong. Despite the odd combination, this dish worked quite well. I especially enjoyed the extra crispy grains of rice that were clinging to the edge of the clay pot. I’ll have to file this idea away if I ever run a fusion restaurant.

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Tops turkey

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mmm...turkey

Thanksgiving was more than a week ago, but we just had our belated feast. Turkey is not common in Thailand although it can be purchased at a pretty penny in most upscale grocery stores. If you do decide to splurge on a turkey, then you encounter the problem that ovens (and definitely not ones big enough for a turkey) are not common either. So how can we get a nice, big turkey cooked on Thanksgiving? Enter Tops delivery. We are fortunate enough that Tops will be happy to cook up a turkey for you and deliver it with some stuffing, gravy, and cranberry sauce. The only thing you need to worry about is carving it.

Our turkey arrived on time and hot. The guests brought dessert, salad, and mashed potatoes. I’m not sure if it was simply a dearth of turkey over the previous year or simply that it was good, but the Tops prepared turkey was delicious. In true Thanksgiving fashion, we had plenty of leftovers to last us a week later. A little bit expensive, but after you factor in the leftovers and holiday mood, it was totally worth it.

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our 'buffet'

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Mango tree

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mangoes

Ahh…the mango tree in front of my house. I still haven’t figured out how it works. The fruits are psuedo-seasonal (I guess) but they come at seemingly unrelated parts of the year and in varying sized batches. The trick is being able to time it well enough to let them grow nice and large, but still pick the ones on the outside of the fence before the neighbors do. Well, actually I don’t do any of this. I just watch as all the action unfolds. I will spring into action when our papaya starts fruiting. Papaya trees grow unbelievably fast and can have large fruits in less than a year. I think I’ll prefer those over the sour mangoes, but I do know many who would disagree with me.

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Leo!!!

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Leo!

It has gone on long enough. How have I forgotten to mention the best (by a huge margin) Thai beer there is? Leo has the right taste and right price to make it my beer of choice. It is much tastier than Singha and Chang. Much cheaper than Heineken and other brands. They even have a cool logo. How could you go wrong with it? Despite the claims here, I am a staunch supporter of Leo. I know many of you will grill me for this, but perhaps the main reason I enjoy Leo so much is that it most reminds me of American beers such as Bud Light or Coors. Yes, those are the kinds of beers I like.

I still don’t understand how Singha and Chang are more popular than Leo. In fact, I’m not even sure that is the case within Thailand. Leo is unknown outside of Thailand due to the huge marketing budgets the other beers command, but inside Thailand I almost always see the locals drinking Leo. Very often when I go to my local corner store or 7-11, they are out of Leo but have a full stock of the others. Anytime I go out (not somewhere nice) all the beer drinkers always order Leo. Whenever I see some random dudes sitting on the street corner, guess what I see them drinking.  That’s right, Leo (usually through a straw)!

In this wiki article, there is a reference to something called Leo Super. In 5 years here, I’ve never heard of it, but I’ll do a little research and try and get my hands on it if it exists. If it’s super, then it must be better than even regular Leo.

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Indonesia Photos

Here’s a few photos from Indonesia. Mostly from Bali since Jakarta basically has nothing worth taking a phot of. All in all a fun trip.

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Ox tail soup

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ox tail soup

This is some ox tail soup I ordered in Jakarta. The soup was pretty good with a tasty broth. I did get a huge chunk of bony tail. In fact, it was so large that the majority of the bowl was filled with the bone. That’s too bad, though, because there was only one sliver of meat on the tail bone. Essentially, I only had a bowl of broth with some potatoes mixed in. With some more meat this would have been a tasty meal.

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Bamboo salad

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Bamboo salad

This here is an Isaan dish called supnawmai [ซุบหน่อไม้]. It is basically a bamboo salad in a similar vein as somtom. I really enjoy this dish and for a little while was going on a binge ordering ever day. It is nice and sour from the pickled bamboo that forms it’s base, but it’s got a lot of other tastes as well. I especially like the texture of the stringy, shredded bamboo alongside the crunchy, roasted bits of rice thrown in the mix. Many other bamboo dishes have a firmer, stiffer texture to them. This meal is often served in typical Isaan fashion with some grilled chicken and sticky rice. And to top things off, bamboo is supposedly very healthy for you!

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Pak Grachet

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Unpeeled pak grachet (water mimosa)

This is an interesting, leafy vegetable that is common around Thailand but I’ve never seen elsewhere. In English it is called water mimosa (sometimes water minosa), and in that it is called pak grachet [ผักกระเฉ] or pak runawn [ผักรู้นอน]. The pak grachet name seems to be much more common. It is one of what I consider the three common leafy vegetables of thailand, the others being morning glory (pak boong [ผักบุ้ง]) and kale/chinese broccoli (pak kana [ผักคะน้้า]).

Anyway, this vegetable is aquatic and grows along ponds or near rice paddies. It basically floats on the tops of the water with long stems that can reach to the bottom. It is fairly tedious to prepare. In the first picture you can see how it looks when freshly picked or purchased at the market-covered with a white, foam-like skin which needs to be peeled of and then the gra chet can be broken into pieces. The skin is quite thick so it probably loses half its weight by the time you finish peeling. Afterwards, it can be eaten raw with chili dips, but I believe it is more common to simply stir-fry it with some chilis and garlic. It ends up being a crispy, crunchy, tasty meal.

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Water mimosa after peeling

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Closeup of the pak grachet

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Gratawn – กระท้อน

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Santol

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Slice and bashed santol fruit

Here’s a strange fruit, called gratawn [กระท้อน], but known as santol in English. A bit large, about the size of a grapefruit with the same thickness of skin, but definitely not a citrus fruit. The taste is very strange; a combination of sour, bitter, and sweet. The texture is also odd, like a thick slime.
Perhaps the weirdest part, though, is that you need to beat the fruit before you eat it. Whether it’s hit with a bottle or smacked on the floor, there is no question that it must be beat up first. I have not been able to discern exactly why, but I think it has to do with some combination of mixing up the juices inside and softening up the flesh.
Anyway, once it has been bashed around a bit it’s ready for opening. After cutting into slices you can eat it, usually pausing to dip it into a sugar and chili pepper mixture. A very strange flavor, but somehow I like it still.

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